I am sitting on a balcony overlooking the Laguna Catemaco, smoking a cigar and drinking local fruit liquor. The cigar is made from tobacco that grows on the ashes of Volcan de Tuxtla, San Martín and the liquor is made from “Chagalapoli” of the same origin. To complete the picture, a full moon illuminates the landscape around me and I am gazing at a ray of light that is reflected by the lagoon.Catemaco has a big community of “brujos”, witches or sorcerers, and by now I can fully understand why they have chosen to live here.
I think that I have never been to such a charming place before. Everything here at the Laguna Catemaco feels natural and unspoiled. From where I am, I can see uninhabited islands and the forested shore of the lake. There is a chain of volcanoes that stretches out to the horizon. I already said in jest that I count volcanoes to fall asleep. Then there are fishermen. They catch fish with tiny rowing boats and old fashioned throwing nets. Not to mention all those beautiful birds, which compete with them. I have only been here for four days, but the gentle waves of the lagoon have already, ever so slightly, started to pull me in. Saying good-bye tomorrow will be hard, suddenly the lyrics of “Hotel California” come to my mind:
Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back to the place I was before
‘Relax’ said the night man
‘We are programmed to receive
You can check out any time you like
But you can never leave!
I am staying at a hotel, run by an extremely nice family. They made my stay an absolute delight. The balcony is the perfect place to enjoy the beauty of the lake and to watch the birds and the fisherman.
There is nothing more to say. This is very close to the perfect place and the perfect moment and I am very happy to share it with you. If you ever need a time out, I strongly recommend that you come here when the moon is full; smoke a cigar and take a sip from the magic potion.
To get to “Catemaco” I took a rental car from Veracruz. There are frequent buses as well. I stayed at the “La Cabaña Del Lago”, which I enjoyed tremendously. To get to the hotel from “Catemaco” you take a taxi or share a “taxi colectivo” to “La Victoria”.